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 IMG_20190922_152417-800x600.jpg.82e96bec3a6e811625b264af51d584aa.jpgIMG_20190815_171943-800x600.jpg.87a95196bc19a9b05455519befc1ff78.jpgIMG_20190127_123501-800x600.jpg.efcdf75f486bcd3e3a5ee8595d085cc0.jpg

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Here is my "Bigfoot" which will get larger tires in the future, for now its still "Smallfoot" 😁

 
275 000km, year 2000, I have it past 2 years, its my daily driver, weekend warrior etc.
 
Engine work done so far:
- larger welded intercooler
- rebuilt turbo
- all new silicone hoses on the intake
- cleaned intake manifold
- new steel glow plugs
- custom made Dawes & Needle turbo control, removed ECU control, set at max 1.2 bar
- blocked EGR
- new fuel filter housing
- new geniune maf sensor
- EGT and boost gauges
- 2.5" exhaust system
 Suspension/Offroad equipment and body:
- Custom front 2" springs +100kg constant load
- Rear 2" springs +100kg constant load (sitting at 3" empty), factory shocks, plan to buy Tough Dog 3" shocks 
- Bravo snorkel
- All new poly bushes
- Removed front swaybar, longer rear links
- Front Polish Fabryka4x4 steel bumper with Superwinch Tigershark 9500lbs synthetic line
- Xt automotive black steel wheels 16x8 ET -20
- Cooper Discoverer Stt Pro 285/75/16
 Bodywork:
- repaired rust at the wheel arches, front radiator support crossmember 
 
Currently its been dismantled at the shop, chassis is going for a sandblasting and then all new body mounts, new longer brake lines and everything new the shop finds when we open this can of worms 😂 probably forgot more things
 
Edit modération : Traduction en français

Voici mon "Bigfoot" qui obtiendra des pneus plus gros Ă  l'avenir, pour l'instant c'est toujours "Smallfoot"

275 000km, annĂ©e 2000, je l’ai depuis 2 ans, c’est mon vĂ©hicule quotidien, guerrier du week-end, etc.

Travail du moteur effectué jusqu'à présent :

- intercooler soudé plus grand

- turbo reconstruit

- tous les durites en silicone Ă  l'admission

- collecteur d'admission nettoyé

- nouvelles bougies de préchauffage en acier

- Commande turbo Dawes & Needle sur mesure, commande ECU retirée, réglage à 1,2 bar max.

- EGR bloqué

- nouveau boĂźtier de filtre Ă  carburant

- débitmÚtre Nissan neuf

- jauges de T° d'échappement et de pression de turbo

- 2.5 " systĂšme d'Ă©chappement

Suspension et Ă©quipement tout-terrain et carrosserie :

- Ressorts avant personnalisés de 2 "+ charge constante de 100 kg

- Ressorts arriĂšre de 2 "+ charge constante de 100 kg (Ă  vide de 3"), amortisseurs d'origine, envisage d'acheter des amortisseurs Tough Dog 3 "

- Schnorkel Bravo

- tous les silentblocs neufs en polyuréthane

- barre stabilisatrice avant supprimée, biellettes de barre stabilisatrice arriÚre rallongées

- Pare-choc avant polonais en acier Fabryka4x4, treuil Superwinch Tigershark 9500lbs corde synthétique

- Xt Jantes tĂŽle acier noir 16x8 ET -20

- Cooper Discoverer Stt Pro 285/75/16,

Carrosserie :

- Rouille réparée au passage de roue, traverse de support de radiateur avant

 il est en train d'ĂȘtre dĂ©monté à l'atelier, le chĂąssis va ĂȘtre sablĂ© puis changement des supports de caisse, de nouvelles conduites de freins, l'atelier trouve quand il ouvre cette boĂźte de Pandore, j'en oublie sĂ»rement.

 
 
 
 

IMG_20190721_143553-800x600.jpg

  • J'aime 3
Posté(e) :

Very nice your 4x4 :agah:

you sandblast the chassis because it’s corroded or for protect its ?

You don’t sandblast the body at the same time ?

Posté(e) : (modifié)

Hi mate,

Nice beast.

I personally dislike the arrangement with only one needle and one dawes, as it is not efficient in terms of managing our VNT turbo.

I did try it, but preferred to add a second needle behind the dawes, and setting the dawes in such a way that it would open at +300mbar boost. And you act on the second needle to set the max boost as you wish. Otherwise, all you can set is spool-up with the first needle, and the max boost at which the dawes would open and open the vanes suddenly. In between, the vanes stay closed  as set by your needle  Needle.

I have now done it with electronics and software which allows any setting, and, in particular, a proper setting to get our Patrol to run beautifully at any altitude, whether it be at the sea side, or on top of the highest driveable montains., without changing any setting.

Cheers,

Modifié par phdv61
Posté(e) :
10 hours ago, Ghislain36 said:

Very nice your 4x4 :agah:

you sandblast the chassis because it’s corroded or for protect its ?

You don’t sandblast the body at the same time ?

Yeah, parts of the chassis were starting to show signs of heavy rust, its a big problem with 4x4 vehicles in Croatia, salt on the road in the winter and Patrols are generally prone to rust

I decided to sandblast it to remove all of the rust while its not to late and to protect it so I can enjoy it for a long time. There are so little serious offroaders remained and import is too expensive. Body is generally in solid condition, while its removed the shop will check for rust in sheet metal, if its heavy they will cut it out and weld new metal

@phdv61 I read about dual setup dawes & needle at australian forums, yours seems a little different by description? 

Where and how did you did it with electronics and software? I was considering sendind the ECU to Australia for a remapping of the ECU, the guys there say it makes the 3.0 a totally different beast for driving, I couldn't find anything online about doing it in europe. My setup was done in Slovenia, ne one does it in Croatia

Posté(e) : (modifié)

@Jeff ,quelques corrections de traduction :

nouveau capteur genuine maf  --> débitmÚtre Nissan neuf

amortisseurs d'usine, envisagez d'acheter des amortisseurs Tough Dog 3 "  --> d'origine, envisage

EGT et mano de pression turbo  --> jauges de T° d'échappement et de pression de turbo

Tous les nouveaux buissons poly  --> tous les silentblocs neufs en polyuréthane

Barre de protection avant supprimée, bras de liaison arriÚre plus longs  --> barre stabilisatrice avant supprimée, biellettes de barre stabilisatrice arriÚre rallongées

Pare-chocs avant en acier polonais Fabryka4x4  --> Pare-choc avant polonais en acier Fabryka4x4

Actuellement, son chĂąssis a Ă©tĂ© dĂ©montĂ© au magasin il est en train d'ĂȘtre dĂ©montĂ© Ă  l'atelier, un sablage au sablage le chĂąssis va ĂȘtre sablĂ© puis changement des puis toutes les nouvelles fixations de carrosserie supports de caisse, des nouvelles conduites de freins plus longues et tout ce que le magasin a dĂ©couvert Ă  l'ouverture de l'atelier trouve quand il ouvre cette boĂźte de Pandore, a probablement oubliĂ© plus de choses et j'en oublie sĂ»rement.

Tu pourras supprimer ce post aprĂšs correction pour ne pas gĂȘner Target

 

 

Modifié par Ghislain36
  • Merci 1
Posté(e) :
il y a 41 minutes, Target a dit :

Yeah, parts of the chassis were starting to show signs of heavy rust, its a big problem with 4x4 vehicles in Croatia, salt on the road in the winter and Patrols are generally prone to rust

I decided to sandblast it to remove all of the rust while its not to late and to protect it so I can enjoy it for a long time. There are so little serious offroaders remained and import is too expensive. Body is generally in solid condition, while its removed the shop will check for rust in sheet metal, if its heavy they will cut it out and weld new metal

We have the same problems in France but here, it mre the body that it is corroded.

I like this model of front bumper from Fabryka4x4, it would be this type of bumper (australian bumper style) that I will set in my next 4x4.

il y a 46 minutes, Target a dit :

@phdv61 I read about dual setup dawes & needle at australian forums, yours seems a little different by description? 

Where and how did you did it with electronics and software? I was considering sendind the ECU to Australia for a remapping of the ECU, the guys there say it makes the 3.0 a totally different beast for driving, I couldn't find anything online about doing it in europe. My setup was done in Slovenia, ne one does it in Croatia

@phdv61 is our sorcerer of electronic , espacially the electronic control  of the y61 3.0 :2 (15):.

Posté(e) : (modifié)
Il y a 7 heures, Target a dit :

@phdv61 I read about dual setup dawes & needle at australian forums, yours seems a little different by description? 

Where and how did you did it with electronics and software? I was considering sendind the ECU to Australia for a remapping of the ECU, the guys there say it makes the 3.0 a totally different beast for driving, I couldn't find anything online about doing it in europe. My setup was done in Slovenia, ne one does it in Croatia

@Target, yes my set-up is different. The Australian dual set-up only accounts for two different settings of Needle, ie max closure of the vanes. They do not provide for a continuous opening of those. With my set-up, you select the right spool-up ( the one you had originally for instance), and then tune the rate of opening with the second needle behind the dawes.  In that arrangement, the Dawes has to be set to open from 300mbar roughly. And it mimics roughly what the ECU used to do, without the boost peaks due to EGR blocking, and a continuous increase in pressure with motor Revs. This is the best I could achieve 'pneumatically'.

508817774_Capturedecran2019-10-13a07_53_57.png.5b516997e61f88e194cfcaa066498956.png

As far as the ECU reprogramming is concerned, yes they do it in Australia, but it requires to open the ECU, unsolder and solder the PROMS. The good thing is that they can suppress the MAF security limits which are a pain in the arse if you change your exhaust for a 3" one. Although my sons live in Australia, and I go and visit them every year, I was not keen to proceed, as I would loose control on what my ECU does, and would never get a good functioning in Altitude, which the PATROL ECU doesn't.

I developped a PCB, based on a 1.5$ Arduino Nano board, and 700 lines of software, to replace the ECU VNT management, taking control of the Solenoid to improve the ECU management in altitude. All what I found on the market was not suitable for the required job.

Cheers.

 

Modifié par phdv61

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